PITTSBURGH, PA - "Clearing away the rust"

If you’ve got a 3-day weekend to kill, Pittsburgh is probably not the first destination that comes to mind. To be honest, I always thought Pittsburgh was a city that surfed the wave of the steel industry, only to be thrown with arms & legs flailing by the decline of manufacturing in the United States. However, I heard rumors that Pittsburgh had recently scraped away the rust and urban decay to weld the roots of the growing green technology industry into its economy. Like a brother from another mother, I had a soft spot for Pittsburgh (perhaps, in my skull). But like Pittsburgh, my hometown of Detroit has had its time of glory and ghetto; unfortunately, more of the latter than the former. My underlying hope in visiting Pittsburgh was to see if an industrial city that went down in flames can really reinvent itself and rise up with dignity once again.

My trip started in the Strip District in downtown Pittsburgh. To my dismay, there weren’t any shiny steel poles. Rather, I found a diverse collection of independent shops, markets, street vendors, restaurants, and clubs; and I heard that their Saturday morning street market was something that shouldn’t be missed. As I walked past warehouses towards the main strip of 18th Street, I found myself immersed in the aroma of made to order churros, baked quiche, and espresso. Street vendors flank 18th Street with clothing, produce, antiques, and a surprisingly diverse selection of Italian, Irish, Mexican, Asian, and South American food. Of course, the one thing that an outsider immediately notices is the relentless assault of black and gold apparel and souvenirs; they were everywhere. No really, EVERYWHERE! I enjoyed people-watching and an espresso while sitting at a sidewalk café table at La Prima Espresso company. I found a perfect accompaniment to my espresso was a freshly baked Raspberry Mele; a sort of a raspberry jelly filled sugar cookie from the adjoining Coingelo’s Pasta & Pizza.

Black & Gold Gear

Crossing over the 6th Street bridge you’ll find yourself on the North Side. The North Side is home to a collection of unique neighborhoods, museums, and the dens of the both the Steelers and Pirates. I enjoyed the creative energy and truly unique exhibits at the Mattress Factory, and felt that the Andy Warhol Museum is what one might expect: the largest & most comprehensive collection of soup and celebrity portraits that one could ever want to digest. It was when I attempted to visit the Penn Brewing Company that I discovered a casualty of Pittsburgh’s recent struggle. Tears welled up in my eyes as I was greeted by chained doors and a lonely “For Lease” sign peeking out of the brewery’s front window. I believe an angel dies when a microbrewery goes under. Later I would discover an additional fallen Pittsburgh brewery on the South Side. I’m considering starting a foundation in Pittsburgh. “Save the Brew,” will have the mission of stopping these travesties from occurring in the future.

Mattress Factory

Spending a few years living in the debauchery-fueled area of Tampa, known as Ybor City, I was excited to see Pittsburgh’s version on the South Side. I’ve heard claims that East Carson Street has the longest strip of bars, tattoo parlors and cheeky independent shops in the United States. After surveying the scene and collecting as much research data as my liver could handle from places such as Jack’s, OTB, and Fathead’s, I will definitively claim that it’s a wonderful 16 block strip that could fuel many bad decisions. However, there is a evil amidst, Pittsburghians. East Carson at 26th Street begins to get a bit scary. Southside Works is a large entertainment area of corporate restaurants and big box stores that are evidence of the unfortunate yuppification of South Side. The saving grace amongst the Cheesecake Factory and McCormick & Schmicks, is the German-inspired: Hofbräuhaus. Although a corporate themed brewery/restaurant, Hofbräuhaus delivered the freshest/best tasting beer that I had in Pittsburgh from knowledgeable and friendly barkeeps. I came for the St. Pauli Girl dressed servers, but will definitely return for the beer!

Church Brew Works

Although I’ve seen aerial footage of the Pittsburgh skyline during football games, I don’t think the 10 second clips do it justice. The Ohio, Allegheny, and Monongahela rivers join each other at the tip of downtown Pittsburgh, and I recently read that the Pittsburgh metro area has the highest number of bridges in the world; trumping more intuitive places, such as Venice, Italy. Pittsburgh manages to integrate its urban downtown environment with the rivers and green hills that surround and embrace it. It seems almost natural that Pittsburgh would transition from a steel-based, to a green-based economy. The best views of the downtown skyline can be found from atop the overlooking Mt. Washington. Whether you scale Mt. Washington riding the touristy Duquesne Incline, or take a limo with one of the countless visiting wedding parties, you’ll enjoy an excellent panoramic of the three rivers, Pittsburgh skyscrapers, and at least 14 bridges pumping life in and out of the city.

Most people would not consider Pittsburgh a Midwest city. I do. With blue collar roots, cold weather, a historical economic decline, and rabidly loyal sports fans: Pittsburgh is a Midwest city in its hot smelted core. Plan on driving in Pittsburgh. Like typical Midwest cities (Chicago excluded), Pittsburgh’s public transit system is effectively useless to people looking to quickly and conveniently get from destination to destination. Perhaps this is because most Midwest cities’ economies aren’t focused on tourism. However, Pittsburgh needs to get used to having out-of-towners strolling through the city looking to enjoy its unique neighborhoods, museums, and bridges. Pittsburgh sheds a glimmer of hope for my hometown of Detroit. Pittsburgh has managed to clear away the rust from a collapsed steel industry, diversify its economy, and become a destination. In my book, that kind of recovery and fortitude proves that Pittsburgh will always remain the City of Steel.

-Don

Downtown Pittsburgh