PERU - "The Story of Peru"
Peru is a kidney-shaped South American country, pinned against the Pacific Ocean by Ecuador, Colombia, Brazil, Bolivia, and Chile. The formidable Andes Mountain Range divides the Peruvian Amazon to the east from the coastal cities and towns to the west. Peru was known as the center of the Incan empire and cradles one of the greatest wonders of the world: Machu Picchu. The history of Peru reveals an all-too-familiar story of destruction and Spanish colonization, as well as the enduring native Quechuan people who have overcome the harshest of humanity and environment. Regardless of the volumes one may read on the geography, history, and culture of Peru, Peru can only be understood through what one sees, hears, smells, tastes, touches, and the visceral emotions of one’s own experience.
On a recent trip to Peru, I began to develop my own Peruvian story. Traveling with my sister and our friend Bobby, we began our journey in the town of Cusco. Cusco is a popular tourist town that can be characterized as a patchwork of Northface and alpaca sweaters, stitched together by Spanish steel. As if swallowed by the Andes, Cusco is seated at over 11,000 feet above sea level. To prevent the nausea and dizziness of altitude sickness, we drank plenty of Mate de Coca throughout the day; an herbal tea made from the coca leaf, tasting similar to green tea. Peru’s national drink, the Pisco Sour, also helped quench our thirst over the four days that we enjoyed eating Cuy (roasted Guinea Pig), alpaca, anticuchos, and other delicious Andean staples.
Fountain in the Plaza de Armas
On day 5, we boarded a PeruRail Vistadome train for Aguas Calientes. Aguas Calientes is the closest town to Machu Picchu and can only be accessed by train or hiking trail. As we slowly wound through the Sacred Valley, so named because of its fertile soil, we watched the white-capped mountains lean towards us from the horizon and peek through the strategically placed windows on the roof of the train. The peaks were so extraordinary that I thought that even the sun must struggle to climb them every morning. Once we arrived, the mountains that nestle the tiny town of Aguas Calientes challenged us with trails that required climbing 200-foot ladders and primitive stone stairways clinging to the sides of sheer-faced cliffs. However, the cherished grand prize is reserved for the early bird that rises at 4:30 AM to catch the sun’s first rays illuminate the grass and structures of Machu Picchu. We sat silently upon our perch overlooking the ruins to watch the rising sun gently clear away the early morning clouds and fog. Although Machu Picchu is situated at only 6,500 feet above sea level, we felt as though we were on top of the world.
Putucusi Trail
We bid farewell to Machu Picchu and traveled by train, and then plane, to arrive in Peru’s Capital: Lima. Lima rests upon cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean and is home to almost 8 million immigrant and native Peruvians. Despite its beautiful seat over the ocean, Lima is perpetually blanketed with fog and clouds throughout the majority of the year. However, downtown Lima has become known for its classic colonial architecture found around its central district and has developed a global reputation for being a hotbed of the latest and greatest fusion cuisine. We found bliss in the cebiche prepared at the ocean side cebicheria, Sonia, and were blown away by the flan and rustic ham sandwiches at the Cordano Bar in central Lima. But then again, how can you go wrong with a cebicheria owned by a fisherman, and a restaurant that’s been slicing ham sandwiches off of the bone for over 100 years? We felt unworthy of the culinary artisanship at Peruvian celebrity chef Gaston Acurio’s restaurant: Astrid & Gaston; yet, we consumed every savory morsel anyway. Needless to say, if we lost any caloric fortitude hiking through the Andes, we found replenishment (and then some) over the three days we spent in Lima.
Cebiche at Sonia
Peru is a destination of discovery. Once past the history of destruction, colonization, and parasitic tourism, we discover truth and purity. The story of Peru reveals to us that humanity continues to struggle more with itself than with finding balance and harmony with its environment. Perhaps, the sanctuary of Machu Picchu is testament that despite an unforgiving and arduous environment, we can create something lasting and beautiful? Perhaps the diversity of architecture and ethnicity in the cities of Cusco and Lima, may serve as a positive example of people coming together despite their tumultuous past? Regardless, it’s up to you to travel to Peru and decide for yourself. It’s up to you to write your own story of Peru.
