NEWFOUNDLAND - "A Place to Remember What's Important"
“Why did you decide to go to Newfoundland?” is the most common question I receive about my latest road trip. For the uninitiated, Newfoundland is a mystery. A Canadian commercial campaign tempts viewers with dramatic oceanside cliffs and nearly 300 year-old fishing villages, while a hypnotic soundtrack of crashing waves, traditional folk music, and narration deliver a simple message: “Newfoundland is about as far away from Disneyland as you can possibly get.” It may be true in the literal sense; however, figuratively, perhaps it’s only a matter of time… Regardless, I have “newfound” appreciation for the affable people who make this rugged landscape their home and struggle to find stability in an unforgiving global economy.
CARVED BY ICE
Not long after leaving the colorful port town of St. John’s, Newfoundland becomes a nature photographer’s muse. Wind-battered evergreens cling to upturned tectonic plates of granite along glacially-carved valleys. Moose socialize and drink in the shallows of glassy ponds just after sunrise. Splintered fishing boats lay upon stone-littered shores as signposts of better times. Streams cascade over towering 2,100-foot cliffs into moss-filtered ponds purer than any bottled water. The warmth of improvised songs and simmering jig suppers vent from the chimneys of cod staging shacks along cold and windy blights. Puffins and whales playfully dive about peaceful fishing harbors while 20,000 year-old icebergs gaze from the horizon. If you want to take a good photograph in Newfoundland, you need only to remove the lens cap from your camera.
The trails are where you’ll truly experience the raw beauty and solitude of this Canadian province. Although you might not come across a single person or manmade object for hours, you will find peace and understanding with the world. The only accompaniment to the cadence of your boots will be whispers of wind through the grasses and evergreens, whistles and chirps of song birds, and your breath filling your lungs with crisp spruce air. The valleys, ponds, and rivers become vividly colored dreams from mountain summits; providing enough exhilaration to stave off all exhaustion from the ascent. The inspiration drawn from this land’s raw beauty has surely fueled its people for survival.
Skerwink Trail
CUT BY GREED
Despite what its name may suggest, Newfoundland is home to the oldest trans-Atlantic settlement in North America. The Norseman Vikings arrived over a thousand years ago and were followed by centuries of English and Irish immigrants. Due to the abundance of cod in the surrounding waters, fishing became the economic and cultural center of the province. Sustainable fishing traditions and a commitment to community provided hard-working residents with a fulfilled and grounded lifestyle; while poor in pocket, they were rich in soul.
However, deregulation and greed devastated the natural resources and economy of Newfoundland. Family-run fishing outfits using bait lines and traps were no match for the hungry harvest nets of international corporate fleets. Large-scale fishing practices began to deplete the cod population with industrial efficiency. Foreign companies succeeded while local communities and economies failed. As a result, small fishing towns watched as future generations fled for the cities, leaving their cultural heritage and traditions behind.
Prime Berth Heritage Center
THE FALL AND RISE
What has happened to the small fishing towns of Newfoundland is a symptom of a larger social phenomenon. An increasing number of communities are feeling the competitive pressures of the global economic environment. In order to supplement struggling industry, many small communities have resorted to selling themselves as tourist destinations. Around the world, the monetary value of culture, identity, and tradition is being inventoried; and profits are becoming more important than the people.
Newfoundland is cautiously developing a burgeoning tourist industry. Locals have been resistant to international hotel and food chains spreading beyond the boundaries of St. John’s; perhaps, a lesson learned from the fishing industry. Fishermen have begun modifying their boats into whale and iceberg tour vessels and opening their homes as bed and breakfasts. Curious, yet friendly, locals enjoy every opportunity to gather visitors’ impressions of the province and share stories about their history and culture; the smiles of pride that stretch across locals’ faces are contagious. Perhaps there’s a reason why commercials to visit Newfoundland aren’t aired in the U.S. market; this is a place where people and culture are more important than profits. Newfoundland “is about as far away from Disneyland as you can possibly get,” because that’s exactly where they want to be.
-Don
Western Brook Pond