CHARLESTON, SC — "A Shrimp & Grits Rampage"
During a recent work trip, I decided to seek out some of the highest-praised shrimp & grits in Charleston, South Carolina. Transplants and locals alike raved about the amazingly delicious food scene and dropped the names of their favorite area restaurants. I listened and was appreciative of all their insights, but adamantly made clear that I only had eyes for shrimp & grits. Some of their suggestions made it onto my list, while others were left off based on the limited time that I was available. Regardless, over my 9-day rampage across Charleston, I experienced 11 of the best shrimp & grits restaurants in the area.
I’ll be the first to admit, I can be particular (read: obsessive) when it comes to assessments and ratings. I wanted to make sure I was targeted, consistent, and fair in the way that I rated each restaurant’s offerings. At the same time, there’s no way to completely remove subjectivity and feeling from the mix. With that said, I tried my best to rate each restaurant’s rendition of shrimp & grits using a “1” to “5” scale in each of the factors below.
PRESENTATION – visual aesthetics, structure, and composition of the dish.
SHRIMP– size, tenderness, and flavor of the shrimp.
GRITS– texture, consistency, and flavor of the grits.
ACCOUTREMENTS– the proportional balance, quality, and flavor of accompanying ingredients (e.g., bacon, tomatoes, sausage, okra, etc.) and any sauce or gravy on the dish.
FLEET LANDING RESTAURANT & BAR ($20.99)
Fleet Landing Restaurant & Bar is unique in that it is one of the only waterfront restaurants in Charleston. At 5:00 P.M. guests quickly file into the bar and dining room areas and are treated to expansive water views through the restaurant’s rear windows. The lively happy hour crowd mixes locals and tourists and exudes a casual, laid back vibe that one would expect from a waterside restaurant and bar.
The medium-sized shrimp were tender and nicely prepared. The Andouille sausage slices were thick and meaty, with a slight warmth of spice. The cheesy grits had a soft creamy texture and were addictive. The primary drawbacks were the crispy hay-like garnish placed on top and the thick dark gravy. Although flavorful, I felt the gravy over-powered and drowned out the other flavors of the dish.
PRESENTATION: 2
SHRIMP: 3
GRITS: 4
ACCOUTREMENTS: 2
SOUTHEND BREWERY & SMOKEHOUSE ($18.95)
Southend Brewery & Smokehouse calls the beautiful historic Wagener Building home in a prime location along East Bay Street. The cavernous three-story floor plan allows the buzz of guests to echo across the stainless steel and copper brew tanks, open kitchen, and dining room areas. It’s a large and busy brewpub that still manages to provide a casual atmosphere.
The large shrimp were a tad firm and possibly over-cooked. Hearty-sized shards of smoky bacon were pleasantly chewy and tender, and were an excellent counterpoint to plump fresh tomatoes. The grits provided a decent foundation for the deliciously creamy gravy that sung smoky notes of paprika. Overall, Southend delivers a hearty and flavorful rendition with a few chopped scallions thrown in for color.
PRESENTATION: 4
SHRIMP: 3
GRITS: 3
ACCOUTREMENTS: 5
HOMINY GRILL ($18.00)
Although receiving notoriety for its James Beard award winning chef and being featured on cable network shows for its “Charleston Nasty Biscuit” (AKA: ‘The Big Nasty’), the Hominy Grill feels like a quaint small town restaurant. Classic southern staples cover its menu and people flock to fill its tables. Guests are treated to polite southern hospitality and complimentary boiled peanuts.
Tender jumbo shrimp were lightly sautéed with garlic, butter, fresh mushrooms, and smoky chips of bacon; the latter of which, provided a nice leathery chew. The grits were rich and creamy, yet retained their body and texture. Although I didn’t squeeze the accompanying lemon wedge into the dish, it’s as if its citrusy essence made the entire dish feel fresh and light. Overall, this was the cleanest presentation and most balanced version of the dish I found. I would argue that Hominy Grill’s rendition be considered the benchmark for shrimp & grits.
PRESENTATION: 5
SHRIMP: 4
GRITS: 5
ACCOUTREMENTS: 5
HUSK ($15.00)
Husk was voted by Bon Appetit magazine as the best new restaurant in the country and the masses that flock there start waiting before the doors open in the morning. The dining areas are packed with pretty Charlestonians amongst a décor that feels like a large contemporary southern country cottage. An aesthetically-pleasing and casual dining atmosphere provides a nice backdrop for guests to enjoy the culinary treats the kitchen provides.
The plump shrimp swam alongside chunks of spicy Surry sausage and English peas. There was a reassuring crisp snap to the sausage skin, while the grits were more of a drowned victim along the bottom of the bowl. Although the tomato-based broth provided an earthy base for the light grassy aioli and peas, the flavors were quite subtle and approached blandness; particularly, if pitted against Charleston’s other versions of the dish. Although it was pleasing to the eye, I wasn’t a big fan of Husk’s fancier and soupier version of shrimp & grits, and left a bit disappointed despite their accolades.
PRESENTATION: 4
SHRIMP: 3
GRITS: 2
ACCOUTREMENTS: 3
POOGAN'S PORCH ($23.00)
Poogan’s Porch is located a couple doors down from Husk and has a congregation that is comparably devout. Even without the national exposure, Poogan’s is always swarming with guests, yet maintains a welcoming and comfortable atmosphere. The bar area provides a cozy space to relax with a cocktail and enjoy a meal.
The tasty tail-on shrimp share a bowl with slices of ho-hum sausage and creamy grits. However, what immediately grabs your olfactory system is the sweet aroma of tri-colored bell peppers and Vidalia onions bathing in light Tasso ham gravy. Although tasty, Poogan’s shrimp and grits are extras compared to the starring sweet bell peppers, onions, and gravy that dominate the stage.
PRESENTATION: 3
SHRIMP: 3
GRITS: 3
ACCOUTREMENTS: 4
JESTINE'S KITCHEN ($12.95)
Jestine’s is a well-known local institution. Friendly service and a nice corner location make it a great place to have a delicious lunch or mid-afternoon snack. In addition to my Blue Plate Special of shrimp & grits on Sunday, I sampled some of the best collard greens I’ve ever had the privilege of devouring. Overall, it’s one of THE places in Chucktown to enjoy a casual lunch and some smiling faces.
Tasty pint-sized shrimp can be found amongst chopped sweet bell peppers and thin savory dark brown gravy. The presentation has some to be desired, but the pillowy grits are dreamy. “Damn near perfect texturally, with a buttery creaminess…” was one of my unedited notes on the grits. Overall, I would have loved Jestine’s version to score higher, but the meager-sized shrimp and presentation left me wishing for more.
PRESENTATION: 2
SHRIMP: 3
GRITS: 5
ACCOUTREMENTS: 4
HANK'S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT ($24.00)
Located a block from the carriage tours and central market of Charleston, Hank's has a pretty choice location. Tourists are marched through their doors to savor the wonderfully prepared aquatic bounty of the area. The dark wood interior and buttoned white shirt staff cue a higher scale stage, yet the atmosphere is casual and laid back.
Plump, tail-on shrimp are perched upon a mound of creamy grits. They’re kept company with slightly sweet diced sausage and tomato, and generously bathed in a reddish tangy tomato-based sauce. Despite its visual dominance, the tomato, butter, and parsley sauce is surprisingly delicate and very flavorful. Overall, Hank's rendition of shrimp & grits achieves delightful flavor, despite its monochromatic appearance.
PRESENTATION: 3
SHRIMP: 4
GRITS: 4
ACCOUTREMENTS: 4
SLIGHTLY NORTH OF BROAD ($26.00)
Despite being about 6 blocks north of Broad Street, Slightly North of Broad (SNOB) still manages to be relatively accurate in location, without living up to its unfortunate acronym. They boast an eclectic menu that includes well-composed local ingredients delivered in a polished, yet casual dining room. The curved bar top near the front of the restaurant is a great place for one to saddle up with a tasty cocktail and taste their way through the menu.
Jumbo shrimp mingle with juicy chunks of fresh tomato and generous slices of house sausage. Chewy strips of country bacon are offset with chopped green onions, while the creamy grits remain hearty amongst a bath of tomato broth. Although SNOB provides a visually heartier version of shrimp & grits, its fresh ingredients and preparation keep the dish relatively light, delicate, and more importantly: delicious.
PRESENTATION: 4
SHRIMP: 4
GRITS: 4
ACCOUTREMENTS: 5
HALL'S CHOPHOUSE ($29.00)
A jazz pianist and suited clientele greet guests entering Hall's Chophouse. This is where pretty and well-paid Charlestonians can come to hobnob and enjoy cocktails. Despite the slightly pretentious happy hour scene, Hall's also features a Sunday gospel brunch and a well-executed selection of chophouse menu standards for families.
Beautifully prepared jumbo shrimp are bathed in a creamy delicate tasso ham gravy. Sautéed bell peppers and onions are accompanied by diced bits of a chorizo sausage, providing a slight hint of spice and savory warmth to the dish. Although outshined by the gravy and other elements, the grits still manage to maintain their creaminess and hold their own. Overall, Hall's provides a very balanced and well-composed rendition of shrimp & grits.
PRESENTATION: 4
SHRIMP: 5
GRITS: 3
ACCOUTREMENTS: 4
LOW COUNTRY BISTRO ($19.00)
Low Country Bistro prepares southern staples with local ingredients and a fresh approach. They’re a well-known favorite by locals and tourists, and fortunately, they have several dining areas to accommodate guests. Low Country resides along South Market Street and serves as a nice launching point to explore downtown Charleston.
Tender and savory jumbo shrimp lounge upon delicious mounds of fried green tomatoes and grits. The smoked tomato and bacon marinara is respectably garlicky, while the fried green tomatoes remain light and crunchy. The cheesy parmesan and chive grits have a nice thick consistency and provide a fantastic base for the entire dish. I would argue Low Country’s shrimp & grits is the most texturally dynamic and uniquely structured rendition of those sampled.
PRESENTATION: 5
SHRIMP: 5
GRITS: 4
ACCOUTREMENTS: 4
HIGH COTTON ($29.00)
High Cotton sits across the street from its sister restaurant, Slightly North of Broad. With a pleasant 3-piece jazz band in the bar area to get you “In the Mood,” it becomes apparent that High Cotton is SNOB’s swankier sibling. Sociable guests and friendly bartenders compliment the jazzy and enjoyable scene.
Medium-sized shrimp intermingle with fresh tomatoes, okra, sweet corn, scallions, and slices of Andouille sausage. The light tomato and garlic broth is a bit soupy, but avoids completely drowning the grits and textures within the dish. The most notable aspect of High Cotton’s rendition of shrimp & grits was the inclusion of fresh okra. Unfortunately, the overall dish plays a bit flat in flavor, particularly against the delicious notes sang by its sister restaurant across the street.
PRESENTATION: 3
SHRIMP: 3
GRITS: 3
ACCOUTREMENTS: 3
Over my 9-day shrimp & grits rampage, I experienced two significant realizations: 1) Charleston is not your typical city, and 2) all shrimp and grits dishes are not created equal. In fact, I was shocked by the breadth of the shrimp & grits spectrum. As if they were culinary fingerprints, each restaurant’s rendition was uniquely their own.
Overall, the best version of shrimp & grits will be based on the taste buds of the beholder. However, if you’re looking for delicious chunky or saucy versions, SNOB and Hall’s Chophouse will serve you well, respectively. If you’re looking for a creatively southern take, Low Country Bistro has you covered. However, if you’re looking for a purely decadent and straight-forward version, look no further than Hominy Grill. Even if you’re not into shrimp & grits, I promise you won’t have any issue finding talented chefs and fantastic restaurants in Charleston, SC. Enjoy!
